We don't pick a polo because it is old. We pick it for a print that stops you, a fabric that feels better than anything new, or a detail someone clearly cared about. Age is not the point. But an old polo has to pass a few checks before it makes it into a drop, and this is what we look at.
1. The collar
Start here, because it goes first. Lay the polo flat and look at the collar points. They should lie close to the body. A collar that curls up at the tips or has gone wavy along the edge has been washed hot too many times, and it rarely comes back. Check the inside of the collar band too. That is where wear and discolouration show first.
2. The fabric
Golf polos from the 80s and 90s are usually cotton piqué, a smoother cotton jersey, or a cotton and polyester blend. Read the care label if it is still there. Then feel it:
- Cotton piqué should feel dry and textured, not thin. Hold it up to a light. If you can see through the body, it is close to worn out.
- Blends with polyester keep their shape and colour well but can pill at the sides, where the arms rub.
- Bright colours and prints should be even across the front and back. A lighter back means years in the sun.
3. The usual problem areas
- Underarms: yellowing and stiffness that a wash won't fix.
- The placket: loose or missing buttons, and stretched buttonholes.
- The hem and cuffs: small holes along the stitching.
None of this rules a polo out on its own. It goes into the condition grade and the photos, so you can decide.
4. The logo
Embroidery tells you a lot. A clean chest logo with tight stitching has been looked after. Threads that are pulled or faded around the logo show that the shirt has been worn hard. Club and tournament shirts often carry a second logo on the sleeve or the back. We wrote more about that in Reading the logo.
5. The fit
A polo from the 90s is often cut boxier than one from today: wider in the body, shorter, with longer sleeves. That is part of the look. It also means the size on the tag says little. Compare the chest measurement with a polo you own. This is how to measure.
How to keep it
Wash it inside out at 30°C, skip the tumble dryer and dry it flat or on a hanger. Fold it rather than hang it for long periods, so the shoulders keep their shape.